Flocking the LX200 Tube Assembly

Reading many sources concerning the advantages of flocking of the interior of the LX200, I finally bit the bullet, and carried out the modification to my own unit, later to extend into the Meade Dew Shield to complete the overall effect. And the overall effect was breathtaking, far exceeding my own expectations.

The views were sharper depth of contrast, cleaner viewing, no off-centre light intrusion and worth at least a stop value in photography.

The following was how I carried out the work, and the ups and downs of the experience.

First, a view into the LX200 Tube before and after the modification. The first view was from a record I took when adding Bobs Knobs into the secondary for collimation, a modification highly recommended in its own right by the way. The second was taken after the flocking of the main tube assembly, and the pronounced reduction of internal reflections can easily be observed from the excitation of the camera flash. Although the final picture was taken in a different room, (Workshop to Shower Room...dont ask), the difference is quite marked.

I used Edmund Scientific adhesive backed flocking material, Type #P54-585 and #P54 578 for the modification, which was cut square using a slide guillotine into strips of 5.5" wide and 12.5" long for the LX200, the final strip being measured to fit. I tried to see if there would be any loose material from manufacture, and can safely report there was none. The Meade dew shield required lengths of 13.5", again the final strip being measured to fit.

A word of warning, the self adhesive backing on the Edmond Scientific material is very strong, and wont come off easily and can remove the existing paint finish if tried. Also, don't get it anywhere near the mirror surface. Wind the focus control back to get the mirror out of the way before proceeding with the modification. Try to butt joint the strips, but don't worry if there is a slight gap or overlap between them.

Use the lip behind the corrector plate casting as a guide for installation and continue installing the strips in one direction. It is not important that the strips are 5.5" wide, whatever is felt easy to handle is the clue here. But keep all the edges square during cutting.

Don't reassemble the corrector plate back into place for a few days. Allow the work to settle and position the tube vertical, with the mirror at the top. Continue to use your hands to smooth out the surface.

Then replace the corrector plate after examining the mirror surface for any dust specks. Collimation of the mirror surfaces will have to carried out at the first opportunity.

Looking into the tube after the modification gives the appearance that the mirror is floating within the structure.

Things I did wrong:- thinking the back cell came out easily. I removed all the back cell screws as a way to making the modification easier. There is only one way:- the removal of the corrector retaining ring and the corrector plate and nothing else. Remember, or mark, it's orientation for re-assembly.

Because of that mistake, I had to carry out a tube collimation as well as a mirror collimation at the next viewing session.

A supply of flocking material is available from Mike Cook. See his contact details at my index page. The material is in <>5 inch strips and about 24 inches long. Ring him for details.

Note the use of Bobs Knobs as the collimation adjustment. These are the original design and still the best. They are low profile compared to other manufacturers. No difference to the adjustment, but allows the telescope cover plate to be replaced over the corrector plate without applying any pressure to the secondary.

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